Category Archives: Big Game Hunting

Articles about Big Game Hunting.

6.5 Creedmoor Superformance Load Data with Lapua Mega 155 grain Soft Point Flat Nose

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As I have written in recent articles, round nose and flat point bullets in short range thick brush environments, can deliver more immediate impact energy to the big game you are hunting at shorter ranges under 200 yards than with some of the long range designed spitzer bullets. The reloading issue is, to get a round or flat nose bullet in a bottleneck cartridge, you must find the bullet and hand load it. Sadly, many round/flat nose bullets are no longer manufactured or are reduced to special manufacture runs. The Lapua Mega 155 grain flat points have a brass jacket and are very hard to find, if at all. The Lapua Reloading Manual is no longer available.

Accordingly, I had to determine the cartridge overall length – COL to the lands in my rifle,  which are 2.68 inches and then I back off the lands to 2.64 inches. I used a spent case and pinched the opening to hold a bullet marked with black magic marker and loaded it in the rifle and closed the bolt. Note: Hornady says COL Max is 2.8 inches for the spitzers. My max COL is much less. Caution: Each rifle may be different. These calculations and data are for my rifle only, a Weatherby Vanguard Weatherguard with a 24 inch barrel topped with a Leupold VX-3. 

My research of reloading data found that Sierra and Hornady had some data for 150, 153 grain and 160 grain bullets. Powders were typical, such as IMR 4350, H4350, IMR 4831 but one powder stood out, it was Hodgdon’s Superformance powder. The powder was published by Hornady for the 153 grain A-Tip Match up to 42. 9 grains max load providing 2650 fps. Superformance allowed me to work up a load safely to higher energy than the other powders but not at max load. 

I did so in half grain increments beginning with 39.5 grains and looking for any signs of overpressure like a really flat primer or gas leaks. I did so with 2 shots for each 1/2 grain increment followed by case and primer inspection, all was normal. I stopped at 41 grains and loaded three rounds for group. I did not chrono these but based on the 153 grain data by Hornady I was in the 2550 fps range. The primers were still rounded and not flattened.  Here is my group at 41 grains of Superformance at 75 yards, no wind. Looks like 1/2 inch group. Nice!

Below is the Trajectory and Energy table at 2550 fps. Delivered energy for elk is said to be 1500 ft-lbs, thus we are good for elk at 180 yards. 

This load is for Northern Whitetails with a flat-point, should mushroom very well. It will be devastating on a 300 pound whitetail buck at under 100 yards at 1800 to 1900 ft-lbs,  A Hammer in anyone’s book!

Calculated Table
Range Drop Drop Windage Windage Velocity Mach Energy Time Lead Lead
(yd) (in) (MOA) (in) (MOA) (ft/s) (none) (ft•lbs) (s) (in) (MOA)
0 -1.5 *** 0.0 *** 2550.0 2.375 2237.6 0.000 0.0 ***
25 -0.3 -1.2 0.1 0.2 2487.5 2.317 2129.2 0.030 1.0 4.0
50 0.5 1.0 0.3 0.5 2425.9 2.259 2025.1 0.060 2.1 4.1
75 1.0 1.3 0.6 0.8 2365.2 2.203 1925.0 0.092 3.2 4.1
100 1.1 1.0 1.1 1.0 2305.3 2.147 1828.8 0.124 4.4 4.2
125 0.8 0.6 1.7 1.3 2246.3 2.092 1736.4 0.157 5.5 4.2
150 -0.0 -0.0 2.5 1.6 2188.1 2.038 1647.6 0.191 6.7 4.3
175 -1.2 -0.7 3.4 1.9 2130.8 1.985 1562.4 0.225 7.9 4.3
200 -2.9 -1.4 4.5 2.2 2074.3 1.932 1480.6 0.261 9.2 4.4

 

I compared this Energy data to my earlier article on my downloaded .375 Ruger. See below. 

Speer Hot Core Semi-Spitzer 235 g 375 Ruger Downloaded for Big Northern Whitetails Or…

The 6.5 Creedmoor with the Lapua Mega 155 grain Flat Point is the clear winner for energy, and will mushroom on the entrance of the hide, but either cartridge and bullet will do the job well for the loads discussed. 

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved. 

Lost in Deep Woods or Just Turned Around – You Need to Think Clearly

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I was hunting deer with my brother and a friend in New Brunswick, Canada, up near Plaster Rock, years ago ( before Cell phones and GPS) along a logging trail the had ribbon marked offshoots. I found buck tracks crossing the logging trail and followed them beyond the ribbon marked trails. It was late afternoon, the terrain was mixed forest with small hills and hummocks. I prided myself in the past for memorizing my backtrail, often making it easy to find my way back. But here, I was interested in finding that buck.

It was getting dark and I had to call it quits when my nose detected tarsal gland scent. He is here, I thought. I stood looking at every bush, tree, sapling to find an antler, a nose, a tail but found none. Thoughts of getting out were taking over my deer focused brain, so I backtracked some and thought I recognized the small hillside. So I went over the hill. On the other side I did not recognize the terrain. What? It was at that moment when it dawned on me that I was turned around, lost my trail etc.

I could have kept going but I realized that I could easily parallel the logging trail and never cut it. Was I too far off the logging trail? No, I thought, but how best to get out?  My brother and friend were likely headed back to camp just 500 yards up the logging trail. I decided to stop and make a campfire as darkness fell. Luckily, I had a knife and camp hatchet and plenty of matches with me. Making the fire was easy with paper birch bark every where. I thought that guessing the direction to go was not in my best interest. I was thinking clearly. Sit tight, I thought, they will come and find me soon.

I was hunting with a 30-06 and had several rounds. One of the signals of a lost or turned around hunter is 3 spaced shots in sequence. I had a nice fire going and let off a single round at first. Then I heard a round fired in the distance. I returned fire. After several minutes I heard another round and I returned firing in the air.  It wasn’t long when I saw some flashlights and a lantern. All the while they  must be thinking I am sitting on a huge buck, but no, just enjoying my large campfire. You ok? “Yes, but I got turned around is all, and thought it best to just sit tight.” Good for you, we were not far from the logging trail.  All was well and some hot food. I was good to go.

Epilogue

I wasn’t lost but was feeling that creepy lost feeling even knowing I was not far off the trail. Staying calm was my priority. It is amazing how building a nice fire lifted my spirits, like having a friend.

I didn’t know it but I was using the STOP Method.

When you’re in a panic, your brain stops working, too. Thus, fear sets in and you can’t help making bad actions and judgment.

Stop what you’re doing at the moment and on that note, the acronym STOP really works well.

  • Sit. Stop what you’re doing and have a drink because a refreshing drink will help calm you down.
  • Think. Evaluate your situation so you can determine if you’re really lost or only feeling lost.
  • Observe. Look around you and evaluate the treats in your surroundings.
  • Plan. After determining your situation, you can now plan your next move or action.

On a deep woods hunt, plan first as if you are going to get lost or turned around. Others should know where you are. Carry enough ammo to use as a signal. Space Blankets and water will keep you warm by a fire and hydrated. For arguments sake lets assume no one is coming, because of poor planning. What do you do? Build a fire and a survival shelter nearby. Can you build a survival shelter, lean to, spruce bow tent?

If not I would read up on shelters…

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021

Maine Hunter Education Survival Kit includes…a Larger Knife

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A knife that fits your hand and has a large enough blade is essential says Maine Hunter Education for a deep woods hunt. It should be sharp and have a handle to fit your hand. Small gutting knives will not provide the function you may need when lost.

One of my many winter hobby projects is creating my very own big game hunting knifes. I purchased a stainless blank that is about 56 to 58 Rockwell for the build. It is razor sharp and fits my hand very well.

Below, this sheath will protect the blade but I will cover the white feather with removable camo tape if deer hunting. White is a no no in the deer woods.  A  small saw is highly recommended as well.

 

In addition, a smaller gutting and skinning knife helps if you are successful. Are you prepared in the deep woods if you are lost? What about starting a fire? Compass? etc. below.

https://www.hunter-ed.com/maine/studyGuide/Survival-Kit-Requirements-for-Maine/20102201_150873/

  • Fire. You must have two different types of fire starters. The Maine Department of Inland Fisheries & Wildlife recommends blizzard matches and a good quality magnesium/fire stick starter. You might want to include a butane lighter; however, they are not always functional. To get the fire going, you should have a small ziplock bag with 10–12 cotton balls saturated with petroleum jelly. It only takes a couple of cotton balls to get your fire going. You should also include a couple of small pieces of birch bark, which can be used to start your fire. Being able to build a good fire is extremely important as it will deal with your fear and anxiety, get you warm, dry your wet clothes, cook food, boil water, and serve as a signal for those searching for you.
  • Spare Compass. A clear, base plate compass is preferred. Having a GPS does not replace the requirement to have a spare compass. While GPS’ are great for navigation, batteries can die and leave you in the middle of nowhere with no method of determining your location..
  • Whistle. Plastic without the pea in the center. A Fox 40 whistle is the loudest and marine whistles are also quite loud.
  • Water Treatment Product(s). You have several options. There are tablets designed for purifying water. You can have a small bottle with an eyedropper with bleach in it. 3 drops per liter for 10 minutes. You can carry a 3 ‘ x 3’ piece of heavy duty aluminum foil and fold it into a container to boil your water. Fairly new on the market are survival straws which sanitizes the water as you suck it through the straw. You can survive without water for 3 days. You become dehydrated in a day or less.
  • Light. A small flashlight or headlamp with spare batteries.
  • Signaling Device. A signaling mirror is great. An old CD will do the same thing for free. Your fire will also serve as a signaling device—smoke by day and fire by night.
  • Spare Glasses and Medication. Three days worth of meds you take daily. Make sure you rotate them out on a regular basis to keep them up to date and keep them in a waterproof container.
  • Large Trash Bag and Paracord. Fold it up tight and wrap it with paracord to keep it folded tight. Trash bag can be used as a poncho or as a base for a roof of a debris tent. A length of 550 paracord will provide you with cordage to help build a shelter and lash things together as needed. Individual strands can also be used as fishing line.
  • Food. Most people can survive without food for 3 weeks. You should have something you do not like that will provide you with protein. You can also pack some fishing flies and small split shot sinkers in a small container like a film canister and wrap it with monofilament fishing line. Wrap the line onto the container, cover with electrical tape and you also have the tape to close wounds with.
  • First Aid. A homeowner’s first-aid kit does not perform the functions you may need. You need to be able to perform self help first and you will need items to control serious bleeding, stabilize a sprain or broken bones. A bandana and feminine hygiene pads can be used to deal with bleeding. By using sticks from the woods, and a couple of triangular bandage you can splint a limb and deal with bleeding. Completing a first aid course and CPR course is strongly recommended.
  • Space Blanket. A Mylar® space blanket can be used to reduce loss of body heat and may also be useful in making a shelter.
  • Duct Tape. A few feet of duct tape wrapped around a pencil or stick will provide you with the ability to tape things together as well as help with wound closure.
  • Electronics. You are not required to have electronic devices in your survival kit. However, if you have a GPS and/or a cell phone, you should know how to use them and carry them with you. Make sure they have fresh batteries or are fully charged and remember that they do not always work everywhere.

Good Hunting!

© Copyright Photo’s 2021

 

 

 

 

Design Your Own Ammo!

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I have seen folks look for their special load e.g., cartridge and bullet at major retailers only to get frustrated and leave, later to come back and hope that their pet cartridge shows up. In my most recent desire to shoot a round nose bullet for my 6.5 Creedmoor, you will never see them as a cartridge off-the-shelf with round nose bullets. It is not being marketed and sold. You must design and create it yourself.

If you are like me, then you want to be free to choose and design your own DYO ammo, to chose the brass, the powder and primer , the bullet weight and style, crimp or not, and most importantly the seating depth and overall length (COL) for their pistol or rifle.

Its fun and over a year, for an active shooter, it will pay for itself in no time.

For a minimal investment of say around $400 dollars or so (less than the cost of a new rifle)  in reloading equipment the hunter/shooter, now a reloader, has the power and freedom to customize the cartridge for the game and distance you wish to hunt.

Reloading equipment brand kits like Hornady, RCBS and Redding are a few to look into. My RCBS set up below. It is over 30 years old.

You just need the dies for your cartridge, powder, primer, and bullet. There are many beginner video’s out there to see how its done but reading and comprehending a loading manual is necessary to be safe. It is not hard to do at all but because you are dealing with powders and primers, safety is a priority.

For me reloading and designing my own ammo gives be tremendous satisfaction that I created my own custom ammo and experiment at the range to maximize accuracy and energy delivered to the game I hunt. On my Africa hunt, years back, I designed my ammo for plains game in my .338 Winchester Magnum and my .270 Winchester. Both cartridge designs were tested and were highly successful in the picture below.

In fact almost all of the game I hunted across the US, Canada and South Africa used my designer custom ammo that I created.

You Can Do it Too!

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Round Nose Bullets and Semi-Spitzer – Brush Buster for Big Bucks – Updated with Miller Stability

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Note to readers: I have updated this article with the Miller Stability Formula from JBM  Ballistics which says 160 grain Round Nose is Stable enough in the 6.5 Creedmoor. Read on…

I have been a fan of round nose bullets to hunt deer in heavy cover thus I began to investigate my options for using my 6.5 Creedmoor that I used well on Texas deer; except with round nose bullets to provide more instant surface shock on entry and perhaps deflect less in heavy brush and a larger exit wound. Below is another article I penned recently.

Flat Nose and Round Nose Bullets for Big Game

What began to surface in my investigation is that there are very few companies which offer 160 grain round  nose in the 6.5 CM in a rifle with 8/1 twist rate.

Tim, a long time reader writes to try the Lapua Mega 155 grain round nose but it is not in stock anywhere I looked. This bullet has a length of 1.248 inches and would be over stabilized in my 6.5 Creedmoor according to Bison Ballistics below at a speed of 2400 fps. However, the  Miller Stability formula on the other hand in JBM  Ballistics below says the Lapua round nose 155 is stable enough and shades it in green. Tim is sending me some of the Lapua Mega 155 grain heads to try! Thanks Tim!

http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmstab-5.1.cgi

https://bisonballistics.com/calculators/stability

In addition, the Miller Stability calculations from JBM ballistics says the Hornady 160 grain round nose, also not in stock,  with a length of 1.257 for Hornady’s round  nose is also STABLE according to the Miller Stability Formula which equals 2.445

I will  have to prove that out at the range if I can get some round nose bullets for the 6.5 Creedmoor.

If I cant get any of these round noses to test and validate then I would lean toward my .375 Ruger with my Speer 235 grain semi-spitzer below that I hand load down for deer delivering nearly 2000 ft-lbs at 100 yards.

The Speer 235 grain semi-spitzers are more round nosed and are great for brush and shorter distances to say 150 yards and will drop a deer in its tracks.  What is so great about round nose bullets is that the rounded nose is already mushroomed to a degree, as the bullet strikes the hide of the animal providing instant radial shock thus the deer have a tendency to drop right where they are hit.   Below is a chuckhawks article that talks about bullet shapes and likely killing power. A good read!

https://www.chuckhawks.com/big_game_bullets.htm

Good Hunting!

© Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved.

 

 

 

Synthetic Deer Scents – Do they work?

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I am a believer in the use of scents especially estrous scents for use during the rut. That said,  I also feel responsible to help prevent CWD. Many conservation minded hunters feel the same way.

For a long time now, the doe pee industry has been working on synthetic scents that mimic doe estrous urine, yet have no CWD issues as they are not urine based. 

And I believe these non-urine synthetic scents have come a long way and today, are field proven.

Large on-line retailers have a rating system that I personally use to determine customer experience. Some research on your part can put you onto some of the best synthetic attractants on the market today and help to prevent Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD).

Here is the greatest thing about a synthetic lure, they don’t spoil over time. You can use it again next season and the season after!

My favorite synthetic lure manufacturers are:

Tink’s

Wildlife Research

Code Blue

Outdoor Hunting Lab

Pete Rickard’s Indian Buck Lure (no deer urine used)  natural formula. 

So go on line and read the reviews and try these lures today. I like those that spray a fine mist. 

Good Hunting!

 

 

 

 

 

Rattling and Grunting Northern New England Bucks – You Must Believe!

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In northern Maine and New Hampshire for example, the number of bucks per square mile is very small indeed. But many of those deep woods bucks have never seen a human. Hunting during the rut is the best time to bag one of these giants. Using rattling horns and grunt tubes can create the inquisitive nature of deer to come and see. Finding a doe during the early rut (November 1st to 12th) is actually finding a buck! He is not far from that doe.

This also makes you the hunter, an active participant and aids in preventing boredom!!

You must believe for this plan to work! 

I have killed bucks in New Hampshire (up close) with this combination beginning with the grunt or bleat at first light. Be ready!  A bit later,  I take the shy approach, grunting softly first a few times and waiting say 15 minutes between grunts or bleats.  No more than 2 sequences.  Less is sometimes more, don’t overdo it! 

I use the sounds of younger deer with an occasional bleat. You can use your mouth if you practice. I use the nasal sound “AAINT” thru your nose for younger deer or “AAUNT” to mimic young adult deer. If you want to mimic an adult buck snort practice snoring air inward like you do in bed. I called in a young 4 point buck to bow with a Can bleat call and a 2 1/2 year old buck to my mouth snort. It works! Coyotes can come too!

 Nothing happening after 45 minutes or so? Tine ticking is  my next move after an hour. It is just touching tine tips against one another for 20 seconds. Put down your calls and get ready! It may pull in a deer right away but if there is a deer that heard it, they know exactly where you are by now! Make the assumption that a deer or buck heard it! What did he hear? I like to use a doe or bleat combo that is feminine first followed later by a young buck sound with the tine ticking. 

That bigger buck out there, is saying to himself that some young bucks are harassing his doe.

He is going to come in, if you’ve convinced him!

Now it’s your job to see the buck before he sees you! 

If a buck is not smelling you, then he is relying on sight/ movement and sound from a distance.  You are  looking for any sort of movement, an ear perhaps, and so is the buck.

Deer don’t often stand broadside, offering a silhouette for you to say “deer”. Look for pieces e.g., ears, eyes, antlers, face, or rump. I grew up with seasoned hunters that had their heads on a swivel and move head and neck to change the picture of woods before them. 

Here, I offer my hard earned secret!!! ” If you have one, Wear a face mask during this whole sequence!” Because deer can identify a face from a long way off. And so can those little red squirrels that chatter like crazy when they spot you, telling everyone that danger lurks here. You are then Busted!! If you have red or grey squirrels around you, a face mask helps greatly!

Because your face is your most identifiable feature. He is looking!! If you are using scents, I would mist an estrous like scent early in the sequence. If you have a mature buck tarsal scent I would use a drop of that as well. More grunts. Minimize your movements.   

I use the tending grunt, where every step of a buck is a grunt as if the buck is right behind that doe!  A tending grunt sounds more like a 50 pound duck quacking at every step. 

If that does not pull out your big buck from hiding, then try a full crash and rattle sequence like the world is coming to an end! One of mine came in, mad as hell to grunt and soft rattling. I shot him ( a nice 8 pointer) at 20 yards with a muzzleloader. I also  pulled in a nice 9 point with just scents to 20  yards. I was in his bedroom.  I kept my face hidden behind a tree, like a squirrel not wanting to be seen.  As I swung my shotgun he jumped out of his skin and stopped at 40 yards to look back. My slug was on its way.

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved.

Deer Hunt Strategies For My Maine Stand Buck Hunt

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It is the first hours of light in morning, and the last hours of light in the late afternoon, that provide the most opportunity to see deer movement. Below, with so much brown it is tough to see deer.  Use your binoculars! 

With a guided hunt, ask your guide why he placed this stand e.g., food/bedding, cover etc., and where he expects to see a buck. If the wind is wrong, blowing into bedding or feeding from your elevated stand, then you will see very little.

So ask yourself, are you facing bedding? Expect morning to be best. If you are facing feeding then afternoon or evening to be best. What are the deer eating? 

If it is a deer movement corridor, then all day stands would be best as long as wind is in your favor. Know when to be most ready, dawn and dusk and mid day sometimes. Have your rifle at the ready!

Remember that boredom is a hunt killer. If you get bored, then get down and move around quietly to change your mental state, munch a piece of candy, find some tracks to see what  was here in the past. Or try tine ticking with rattling antlers after say 9 AM, or a few grunts or bleats off your grunt tube. Less is more, he will hear it! You may have a bedded buck come check you out and may be facing you? Do you have the skill to make a facing rifle shot? Did you practice? Don’t expect lots of blood as the brisket has fat that will close the entrance wound. 

Think like the predator that you are. If your not focused, then take a break or get back to camp for food and a pick-me-up. Good self talk is important for your hunt attitude. There is a big buck with your name on him. You just have to find him and get him to show himself!

Avoid messing up your stands view by walking in it and leaving your scent. Wind can be your friend or a potent enemy. Carry wind powder or watch your breath steam move. 

Have a scent strategy if your guide doesn’t. If the wind is no longer in your favor then plan to move to better take advantage of wind. If your guide comes at 10 or 11  am to check on you and the wind is wrong then ask to move to a different stand. 

Move or still hunt into the wind or crosswind.

If you need to go take a number 2 then move from your stand and create a divot with your boot heel near a tree. Cover it with leaves or snow. I have orange toilet paper. Avoid white underwear and white TP. Keep your rifle close by.

If you are going to hunt in snow, then cover your barrel muzzle opening with a single piece of electrical tape to prevent snow falling in it. It won’t affect your shot. Air will force the tape away before the bullet even gets there. See https://www.outdoorlife.com/blogs/live-hunt/2011/11/three-ways-weatherproof-your-rifle/

I had a sling swivel that sometimes squeaks, I rub my nose for a bit of oil and place it on the swivel bar. It works! Or use some chap-stick to lube it. 

If I am not seeing game for a few days of my stand hunt, then I may sleep in the morning and hunt the midday and afternoon. The idea is to be focused and ready! Remember the hunt rules for your hunt. Mine is bucks only. Or rather big bucks only!

Good Hunting!

© Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved.

 

 

Maine; Deep Woods Stand Hunting for Big Whitetail Bucks – How to Communicate? Updated for Survival!

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I have just booked a guided 6 day Northern Maine “Stand” Hunt for a chance at a big whitetail buck in November. This method of hunting can be fruitful if I am warm and comfortable and can stay focused in an elevated stand. It is a physically easy hunt, however, it is mentally challenging to say the least.

Yes, we do this for the ultimate reward, a chance to take a monster buck in size and antler development. 

At 11AM my guide will bring soup and sandwiches and check on me and what I have seen. All else being equal he will pick me up at dark. And back to camp for dinner, check with other hunters and rest for the next day. 

But how do I communicate? 

The problem with this kind of remote hunting is that phone service, in my case, does not exist. So, how do you communicate? It just so happens that my guide has a Garmin satellite device where he can see where his dogs are or to text a hunter with similar equipment. For years I have had an older Garmin GPS unit but it does not allow two way texting.

Garmin, among others today, offers Satellite text capability with GPS and has created a range of devices. For $350 dollars you can get a basic unit that can send text and some basic GPS or spend more to get  mapping, waypoints and other options.

Communication is invaluable for Safety!

When I told my wife and family, I was spending money to keep me safe they were elated with my purchase. 

Even though I bought my Garmin InReach Explorer+ ® unit (retail $449), I have not personally tested it. I have owned Garmin’s for my boat navigation, and for basic hunting GPS.  I find that Garmin products are solid, and well designed. 

inReach Explorer®+

In the coming weeks I will test this unit and give you some feedback.

Features from the Garmin.com website below for this model.

Handheld Satellite Communicators with GPS Navigation

  • Rugged handheld satellite communicators enable two-way text messaging via 100% global Iridium® satellite network (satellite subscription required)
  • Trigger an interactive SOS to the 24/7 search and rescue monitoring center
  • Track and share your location with family and friends
  • Pair with compatible mobile devices using the free Earthmate® app for access to downloadable maps¹, U.S. NOAA charts, color aerial imagery and more
  • inReach Explorer+ device adds preloaded DeLorme® TOPO maps with on-screen GPS routing plus built-in digital compass, barometric altimeter and accelerometer

At a Glance

This unit and similar units are your best option to send and receive text. Like, “Just shot a big buck” or SOS button that sends a signal and/or text to rescue folks for help. The great part is that it is compatible with android and IOS apps. My I-phone will still be useful to text via the Garmin Bluetooth.

Keep them charged and warm, not in a back pack!

 

Survival Kit Requirements for Maine:

https://www.hunter-ed.com/maine/studyGuide/Survival-Kit-Requirements-for-Maine/20102201_150873/

Good Hunting!

 

 

 

 

Hunting Knife Steel: The harder the better? Some Thoughts…

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I hear some of my hunting friends complaining that their hunting knife steel is too soft, and can’t even gut a deer without re-sharpening. Others complain that their steel is too hard to sharpen, and once dull, the hunter can’t get an edge after trying several times. Sharpening without some basic skills, can be frustrating.

Some folks are buying those razor blade insert knives, they do work well on big game until dull, then another insert you dependent on. 

I don’t own one, perhaps because I am a traditionalist by nature and don’t like being dependent. I just love the look of a good knife, handle, and well made leather sheath. Like this Damascus hunter-skinner knife I built. 

 

So here are some thoughts for those of you that want woodsmanship sharpening skills on traditional knives…or on your traditional broadheads. 

The truth is, that it is the skill of the person doing the sharpening that matters most. Consistency of angle is key, with the correct type of stone matched to the hardness and composition of your blade steel.

It was Vince Lombardi of Football Coach fame that said; Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect.

Choose a knife with a bit lower Rockwell hardness (HRC) and steel composition or read up on your blade composition to best sharpen it. Stainless 400 series steel such as 440 C ( carbon)  is a great pick as it is often in the range of 57 to 59 HRC and easily sharpened. Stainless cleans up easy as well. D2 “tool steel” is great for holding an edge, yet a bit harder to re-sharpen. I have a D2 Skinner blade coming, so I can test it against 440C and see how they re-sharpen. 

Modern knife steel such as S90V or steels which have lots of Vanadium (the V in the formula) really hold an edge but are very difficult to sharpen.   Damascus steel, like 1095 folded with 15N20 is perhaps 56 to 58 HRC and readily sharpened in the field.  I own 2 beautiful Damascus knives and they are fine with a thin layer of oil, and they gut and skin very well on a single deer. Just remember to wash them and re-oil and hone (touch up) after use. 

If you do have a knife that does not take an edge on an Arkansas like Sharpening stone, or a wet stone, try a diamond stone. Better yet, a Lansky type diamond sharpener kit for 80 dollars or so. , The key is that it maintains the correct angle. Most blades are sharp after 600 grit. If you desire to begin to polish a keener edge, 800 and 1000 grit is all you need. I go to 1000 grit with both wet stones and diamond impregnated stones and stop there. Use a leather strop to clean the burrs off.

Deluxe Knife Sharpening System Kit

 If a large hunting knife is going to do camp chores with wood then you are already setting your self up for disappointment when hunting unless you take the time to re-sharpen it right after splitting kindling wood.  A second sharp skinning knife is better for easily dressing a deer. A ceramic honing rod, like the one below, helps maintain the edge, whether chopping or skinning. 

 

Arkansas-Superstick-Large-Heavy-Duty-Ceramic-Rod-Knife-Sharpener-Wood-Handle

The angle many experts consider best for a hunting knife is 15 to 20 degrees on each side. The 20 degree edge will handle tougher camp jobs than a 15 degree edge, but for just gut and skinning, a 12 to 15 degree edge is sharper. If you have a 15 degree edge then stroke the full  blade a couple of times on the ceramic, and a bit more than 15 degrees of angle to ensure that you honed the edge. 

To establish a new angle, expect to spend a lot more time honing (consistently).   Further, that sharpening to a razor edge, often requires that you establish a burr edge on one full side (you can feel the burr by rubbing your fingers away from the edge)  and then work the burr thinner on the other side with a stone and then a leather strop to clean off the burr. Test for sharpness by cutting a piece of paper. I sometimes use the skin of a tomato. Rest the knife blade on the tomato and if it cuts in less than 1/2 inch of a soft slicing motion then your good to go. If you want to shave your arm hair, ( I don’t recommend it) just be very careful. One last good sharpness test is to gently rest the edge on your thumbnail, if it bites in, it is very sharp.

Good Hunting!

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