Archery Bowhunting Broadhead Quiver Safety

When I deer hunt with my recurve, I use an attached bow quiver that shields and hold my arrows with cut-on-contact broadheads.

For safety sake I test my quiver to ensure that arrow don’t inadvertently slip down or pop out of the shield or rubber grippers.

A loose broadhead can severely injure you or your bow string. It is wise to carry a First Aid Kit with Pressure Bandages. I do!

I practice with the quiver attached because it can effect shot placement and gets me used to navigating the woods with broadhead arrows. Vibration can loosen your well protected broadheads thus, it pays to inspect the quiver and incorporate a visual check as you hunt or stump shoot to ensure they won’t come loose on the hunt. I look at the arrow length at the nock when it is in the quiver regularly and ensure no movement.

I have an attached recurve bow quiver that shoots quietly but it is not holding my arrows as tight as I would like. Often, arrows are either smaller diameter than the rubber gripper or the gripper is showing wear.  These grippers are parts that can normally be purchased from folks like 3 Rivers Archery or from Lancaster Archery et al. If your rubber gripper is worn then buy a new one or address the loose issue pronto.

https://www.3riversarchery.com/replacement-arrow-gripper-for-selway-bow-quivers.html

https://www.lancasterarchery.com/selway-bolt-on-quiver-take-down-recurve-quiver.html

This kind of problem is not new to bowhunters. With the advent of smaller shaft diameter and stiffer carbon spines, this is a common problem but be acutely aware that arrows that come loose an out of the shield are dangerous to you and your bow. 

Accordingly, I created a tighter fix for my, one of a kind, 6 arrow rubber grippers by crisscrossing elastic bands inside the arrow grip slots thus making my arrows snap in tightly. I tested my setup and inspect it regularly, you should too.

If you are target shooting a lot when not hunting,  I suggest you remove any broadheads from your quiver for safety sake and put the broadheads on when hunting.

Pass it on!

Good Hunting!

© Copyright 2021

 

Deer Rifles: Shooter Accuracy/Shot Placement Thoughts

The “given” here, is that the rifle you chose is capable of an ethical deer harvest.

Next is US, you and me. The best way to explain what drops a deer fast, is largely, the accuracy of WE the shooters and shot placement.

As i began the article, of course the caliber and cartridge must be adequate. For an ethical deer harvest, a delivered energy minimum is suggested at 1000 ft-lbs in order to penetrate through vitals such as heart and lungs.

Exit wounds are helpful for tracking thus, I prefer more delivered energy. With todays rifles, it’s a given, that the rifle has some bench rest accuracy at or near MOA meaning shots will group about an inch spread at 100 yards.

My favorite deer calibers for most hunters begins with the 243 Winchester for really low recoil yet adequate for broadside shots, and all the way to a 300 Win. Mag up to .375 H&H or .375 Ruger  for dangerous or very large game.

If you hand load as I do, all the better, then you can customize your load to fit the game you hunt.

The 300 Win Mag and .375 can be downloaded for deer as well. I download the .375 Ruger with a 235 grain Speer Hot Core at speeds of around 2200 fps for out to 100 yards or so. I took a 150 pound red deer at 40 yards with a 225 grain flat nose bullet traveling at 1600 fps hand loaded in my .375 Ruger. She fell dead in 10 yards with full penetration and a heart shot.

My Safari rifle, years back,  was a .338 Win Mag with 250 grain Nosler Partition bullets.  I used it on plains game animals such as blesbok, impala, springbok and Kudu. They all fell right there, to a single well placed shot in the heart/lung area.

There are several rifle attributes for many, including me, to shoot accurately. First, The deer rifle must fit when I shoulder the rifle with a hunting jacket on.

Too long a stock, and it will never make it quickly to your cheek on cold November day in New England.

Second, a trigger that is crisp and not too heavy. For me, three pounds is about right. If you don’t know when your trigger breaks to fire, then you are likely to have a difficult time placing the shot correctly.

Third, I must be able to handle the recoil.

Fourth,  if using a scope as I do, a good cheek weld in alignment with the scope is vital. I love Leupold scopes for optical quality at a fair price. They are rugged!

Fifth, is a state-of-the-art recoil pad that reduces felt recoil by 50%. Less felt recoil translates effectively to improved accuracy. I use the Pachmayr Decelerator™.

Sixth, is a gun that is not too heavy to carry all day. My limit is around 9 pounds with scope for large calibers but prefer 7 to 8 pounds with scope here in New England.

Bullet Attributes

Best in class bullets today for hunting big game begin with bullets that tend to stay together such as core-lock types but even better are partition bullets where the forward point is soft and the rear partition is hard  and continues to penetrate. Today we also have both highly effective bonded bullets, such as the Nosler AccuBond et al., where the lead is bonded to the copper and monolithic gilding copper bullets. Bullets like the Nosler E-Tip and Hornady GMX, where the bullet flares inside game with mushrooming or petals and retains nearly 100% of its original weight.

Pure copper monolithic bullets from Barnes work too and retain most weight, but I have had difficulty keeping my barrels clean of copper, so I avoid them. Some folks find them excellent in their rifle and that is fine.

Most bullets offered today for center fire rifles are pointed spitzer types often with synthetic tips that push open a hollow cavity and flare or mushroom. These are great all around bullets that are best shot in the open and at long distances. But don’t discount round nose and flat nose bullets out to 300 yards. These bullets are designed for heavy brush, shorter range and deliver great punch to drop big game. I even have a 160 grain round nose from Hornady for my 6.5 Creedmoor. However I must hand load them as there are no commercial off-the-shelf rounds widely available for deer size game.

I prefer either Nosler or Hornady bonded or monolithic for spitzer styles and core lock copper jacket styles offered by Hornady for round nose short range brush.

There is a movement perhaps toward monolithic copper, I believe because, it maintains nearly 100% of its bullet weight in game. I prefer both the Nosler gilding copper E-Tip or Hornady gilding GMX.  Experimentation will determine if you like the accuracy from them in your rifle.

Shot Placement

In a perfect world the game is standing broadside. Bullets should be placed in the heart/lung area which, if broadside is just behind the front leg about a third up from the brisket.  Shots that are facing are iffy if you can’t place the bullet in the center of the chest to take out the heart and damage both lungs. Best shot placement, besides broadside, often require a more powerful rifle above the 243 Winchester when the animal is quartering away or towards and capable of breaking bone and reaching vitals. Neck shots as vital vertebrae and arteries are a guessing game for me, so I resist that shot.

Bullet Speed and Energy

Bullet speed has only one terminal ballistic requirement, that delivers sufficient energy to reach and damage vital organs for a quick death.  As I said earlier, many have evidenced that delivered bullet energy in the 1000 ft-lb is a minimum for deer. Talk about hydrostatic shock for a very fast bullet for an instant deer dropping kill has some proponents, but again, shot placement is key. Equally are those who shoot large diameter bullets that go much slower.  Both will kill humanely.  The greatest example of large and slower is the 50 caliber muzzleloader which launches a 250 to 400 grain projectile at just over 2000 fps.

Shot placement is key for a quick humane kill!

I shot a trophy Texas buck with my T/C 50 cal. muzzleloader right behind the front leg with a 295 grain bullet at 2300 fps. He fell as if pole axed with his legs in the air.

And on occasion, the hydraulic effect of driving fluids like blood from a heart shot to hydraulically damage the brain from a chest wound does happen on occasion. This effect can turn the brain off like a switch for an instant kill.

In closing, the key here is still shot placement.

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021

 

 

 

 

 

Crossbow Hunter-ed Certification On-Line in Maine

I took the on-line course today in case I crossbow hunt in Maine during firearms season and printed  my cert. card. It was very thorough. I was hoping that it included archery season. It doesn’t! But would be great, up close, for bear or in residential areas that have noise concerns for deer hunting. There is a fee to get the crossbow license too.

The course covered general hunter-ed safety, first aid, ethics and responsibility, crossbow use, compound vs recurve crossbows, broadheads, types, and how they kill,  hunting scenario video’s, Tree stand hunting and safety with crossbow, shoot and no shoot scenarios, game care, and more…Much of the course seems to be a remake of the general bowhunter-ed with a focus on crossbows. Took a few hours to take it. Glad I did it!

 

Details below at the website. Here in New Hampshire we do NOT require a Crossbow Cert. but must follow the laws pertaining to crossbows in NH. Be wise and study up if you are new to Crossbows. You must de-cock your bow before placing it on or in your vehicle.

https://www.crossbow-ed.com/maine/ 

The website says;

“Get certified in 3 steps.

  1. Study and pass the $30.00 online course.
  2. Finish any other requirements.
  3. Get ready to go crossbow hunting!

Do you need Maine Crossbow education?

Any person (resident or non-resident) who is 16 years of age or older and applies for a crossbow hunting permit must hold a valid license to hunt big game. In addition, he or she must either:

  • Show proof of having successfully completed an archery or firearms hunter education course and a crossbow hunter education course OR…
  • Provide evidence of having held any valid hunting license and a valid permit or license that authorized the use of a crossbow. (Junior hunting licenses and apprentice hunter licenses are not valid.)

Course Requirements

You must be at least 10 years old to take this online course.

There is no residential requirement to take this online course.

Do I have to take an online exam?

The Final Exam is the exam you take at the end of the online course. You must score at least 80% on the exam to pass. You have unlimited attempts to pass the exam. If you don’t complete the exam in one session, don’t worry. When you log in later, you will be taken to the first unanswered question of the exam.”

 

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Check it out!

The Whitetail Rut Cycle Begins Anew: A Hunters Thoughts…

A hunters thoughts…August, like right now,  I believe, in New Hampshire is roughly when the white-tail deer pineal gland (part of photoperiodism- The hours of sunlight each day)  in bucks and does begin circadian clock-like signaling hormone changes. In the case of bucks, these hormones cause the blood to stop flowing to antlers (and they harden) and the drive to mate becomes increasingly important. Antlers are fighting tools, deadly knives and swords if you will,  to  attempt to kill each other for the chance to mate.

The velvet on antlers which house the multitude of veins that carry calcium that grow the bone-like antler structure begin to dry up after mid August. Males will begin to buddy-up in a bachelor group and play spar with each other and work the dried velvet from antlers on trees and bushes.

Sex and mating desire become ever increasing while the does pineal gland hormones times the beginning of estrous. Estrous is when does are fertile and receptive to mating. This occurs some time between mid October and mid December.

We tend to call that estrous time, THE RUT.

In my experience, the RUT peaks around November 20 give or take a few days and after October 31st is when deer movement and activity is more visible. This is when bucks often let their guard down to chase and mate a doe, often in disregard to danger.

Perhaps too, some hunters, like myself,  can feel the change in the air, around this time and thoughts of hunter preparation are under way. I wait all year for this time, to really come alive! I liken it to renewal, we hunters too, become part of the Rut. 

September is a time for bucks to hang out together away from the does and spar, friendly at first. Does and fawns eat aggressively to build fat stores. Deer are crepuscular creatures, meaning they are most active at dawn and dusk. 

In October, I discover,  the night air carries the scent of emerging tarsal gland scent. Tarsal glands give off this strong scent to give notice to bucks and does. Once you have smelled tarsal enough, as a hunter, you can recognize it. I smell it’s pungent aroma beginning in late October even at my home at dusk. If hunting, you can sometimes wind that a buck is nearby ahead or you. 

I find that sand pits are a great place to see deer tracks in the fall and to identify buck, doe and fawn/yearling tracks. Age often rounds a hoof front and its width and length tells about age and size. I believe bucks like fields and sand pits as much as does do as they see each other and when they can’t see, they can ID the deer by the interdigital gland secretions between the split in the hoof. 

It is perhaps an Axiom for serious hunters,  that during the Rut, the mantra is “find the does and bucks will not be far away.” 

Beware of Buck Lockdown however, near to the peak of the rut, bucks will not leave a receptive doe and will stay with her, thus he is no longer searching and moving. Some hunters might say; “Where did the deer go?” 

I like hunting the early part of the rut curve as bucks are searching as are the does. I have observed does heading toward buck bedding areas at dusk. She is going out on a hot date!

I hope you had some fun reading this article. If you did, you can read more at the article i Tick, Tock below from Len Lee Rue III.

Tick, Tock

Good Hunting!

 

Traditional Archery; The pendulum swings? Bowhunt too!

Shooting a cost-effective traditional recurve or long bow barebow (no sights) in your back yard or at a 3D shoot.

It’s just great fun and trains your mind! It’s quiet too, so it won’t bother the neighbors. I like it because it is great for arm, chest and back muscles and coordination. And it sharpens your conscious mind in terms of self-awareness of breathing and muscles just like shooting a rifle. 

I have two inexpensive, but accurate, takedown bows (Samick Sage) of 45 pounds and a 50 pound OEELINE Bow below. Only $115 to $130 dollars each for bow and string. Can’t beat the cost-effective nature of traditional archery!

 

Getting Started?

Purchase a half dozen starter arrows can be purchased for $30 to $60 dollars or so. Very inexpensive setup as compared to a compound bow. You will need an arm guard and a shooting glove or finger tab. 

Allen Super Comfort Archery Glove, 60335

Shooting Glove

Finger Tab

Bear Cordura Arm Guard

Arm Guard

If you are just starting out, I would join a sporting club and find an experienced traditional archer willing to help. 

I have been shooting recurves and long bows for more years than I care to count. I’m picking up my recurve to see if I can meet my hunt expectations and have some 3D Archery fun.

 Arrow spine and length charts on-line can help you find a good shooting arrow of aluminum or carbon or even Port Orford cedar. Buy a bow square and knock points and a crimp tool. 

Brace height is the distance from the string to the inside bow grip some call the throat. Many Europeans call it Fistmele – the breadth of a fist with thumb stuck out to give the correct height of a string from a braced bow, approximately 7 inches. Brace height can be adjusted by twisting the bow string several turns to tighten the string and increase the brace height, if needed.

See the chart below for a guide. Best to use your manufacturer recommendation. 

 

Shooting at unknown distances is key to calibrating your eye and mind. One of the best, and fun, techniques I use is to purchase a Judo point head below, screw it onto your arrow and shoot it in grass at balloons. The spring barbs catch the grass and your arrow will flip and not get lost. It is fun to hear the balloons pop! Gotcha! 

J125 JUDO Unloseable Miracle Point

The wind increases the challenge as the balloon bumps along the grass like a rabbit. I trained three youngsters to shoot compounds this way along with traditional bullseye targets and 3D Animals.

 

Hunting Stances

A good archery shooting stance is where your feet are a shoulder width apart and if you are right handed you will face nearly parallel to the target and your face is looking toward the right. In hunting, you must train and adjust your stance with the existing terrain however. Traditional target archers stand upright and recurve and long bow hunters stand a bit more like the letter C, hunching a bit over the arrow. Recurve target bows rarely get over 30 to 40 pounds. In contrast a hunting bow begins at 40 pounds pull at around 28 inches of draw and often 50 to 60 pounds pull or more at full draw. 

Stances can be adjusted based on the bush and terrain you are in, so experiment. My bow is canted so my eye is next to the arrow nock for better aiming technique. I use an under arrow draw method.

Draw and Anchor

Push the bow with your left bow arm and pull with your right arm. If I can’t feel my back muscles tensioning, then I am not at full draw. 

Full draw means the use of back muscles and is critical for good arrow flight, accuracy and form.  Accordingly,  I don’t try to shoot a bow that is too heavy in draw weight to start.

Your anchor point is often on your right cheek for a right hand shooter but that can change with different techniques. It is all about form, and repeating that form, just like golf and bowling. 

Release

Release is letting go of the string. Keep your arm up like at full draw and release the string in a rearward motion. Plucking the string sideways will send your arrow left or right. 

Follow-thru

After the string is released, maintain the stance for a few seconds allow your drawing arm and hand to finish its rearward motion. This allows you to create a body form which completes the release. And it looks and feels cool to do. 

 Both conscious and sub-conscious self-awareness is a large part of archery. Use of your mind, stance, form, eyes, arm and back muscles and release at the bow means a better flying arrow at the target. 

Good Shooting!

© Copyright 2021

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New OEELINE Aerobow Recurve (Out of the Box) Review

I purchased this 62 inch OEELINE Aero-bow takedown recurve bow (50 pound) brand new for $115 dollars, WOW! Is this cheap junk or a great deal?  Current reviews are very positive, so lets see…

I own a Samick Sage 45 pound take down bow which is very similar in design. I have been practicing with the Samick for almost 3 weeks and getting into shape. I really want to shoot a 50 pound recurve bow for deer and hog hunting, hence the new purchase.  The new Aero-bow comes with an armguard, finger tab, Stringer and of course a string and 4 brass knocking points. (I own a knocking point tool) The bow did not come with any arrow rest. So I bought an arrow shelf rug and fur string silencers separately.

Note: I am not fond of the stringer device that came with the Aero-bow. I prefer a stringer that attaches tip to tip. I did purchase a rubber slip on limb tip protector to protect the lower limb tip from damage. 

DAY 1 – Like all new bow strings, they stretch. So once your bow is strung measure the brace height. Mine was 7.5 inches which is good. I shot the bow and remeasured the brace height at 6 inches. I expected the stretch. This bow needs a 7 to 7.5 inch brace height.  Unstring the bow and twist the string a dozen times to shorten the string. I turn the top loop end clockwise.  Restring and check the brace height again. I had to turn the string many times to get the brace height back to at least 7 inches. Shoot it again or leave it strung for a few hours to stretch the string. Remeasure and adjust. You may have to do this more than once, till the string settles in. And be sure to recheck your knock point! So far the bow strings and shoots well. Very comfortable in my hand. Very little vibration, nice!

Since I have been shooting the Samick Sage at 45 pounds, the extra 5 pounds of the Aero-bow puts a bit more weight on my back muscles at full draw. I practice to achieve a true full draw, but stop shooting when tired. It will take a week or so of close target practice shooting to build strength in my back muscles and achieve good form. 

Arrows, should be spined for the bow draw weight and arrow length. I like a helical feather design especially for broadheads. For hunting, I focus on traditional cut-on-contact broadheads. 

A New Hampshire Granite State 3D Shoot is coming up this Sunday.  We shall see if I am ready. 

Good Shooting!

© Copyright 2021

 

 

Doin’ the Twist on your .270 Winchester?

“Come on Baby”, sang Chubby Checker! If you own a .270 Winchester with the standard 1:10 twist and you are happy with shooting lighter 100-150 grain bullets, then stay with them. However, if you want to push the envelope on heavier bullets, experts suggest a new barrel on your pet rifle in 1:8 twist can allow 170 grain bullets to rock n roll. Hand Loading is key!

But before you jump to order a new barrel consider the cost, and installation. A Lilja custom Barrel at 27-28 inches is going to run about $400 to $500 for the barrel alone. See Below.

Centerfire Barrels

Installation by a competent gun smith will be an additional fee. Shipping your rifle to the gunsmith? Another add-on. You could be spending around $1000 for your new set up.  Now you have a .270 with a different twist or as modern metrics go, you have a 6.8mm rifle. Or you can purchase a whole new rifle in 6.8mm.

If you just love spending time at the target range with your new toy, then by all means do it.

But as for a hunter, maybe stick with what works, the .270 can shoot 150 grain bullets just fine and will kill Moose for gosh sakes. For just 20 more grains of bullet in a 1:8 twist, your spending roughly $1000 for 20 more grains of lead to throw down range or at a game animal. Maybe a .280 or a 7mm is a hunter’s approach. The 7mm Rem Mag shoots a 175 grain very well. If you then bought a 7mm, you would then have an additional rifle at roughly the same cost. Think Ahead!

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021

Buying a New Compound Bow for Deer Season?

I have had several compound bows over the years. My first compound bow is now perhaps in a museum. It was a Herter’s Power Magnum Compound. It was state-of-the-art in the late 1970’s.  I hunted South Africa with a High Country Sniper Compound bow in 2003 where the Gemsbok below fell to a Muzzy tipped arrow at 25 yards and a Red Hartebeest at 20 yards (not pictured). See my African Safari eBook on the home page. 

Gemsbok – South Africa 2003

What rings true for me is to purchase hunting compounds from major manufacturers like Bear, Hoyt, Mathews, PSE  et al, and major retailers that have a honest-to-goodness expert bow person on hand to talk to. Your bow will need string service by a tech upon purchase unless you become expert yourself. Things like string serving, knock points, peep sights, rests etc. all need to be added. I like a short stabilizer. Get a best-in-class ball release, sight and hunting rest. As for arrows and broadheads, I am an Easton and cut-on-contact broadhead fan. Suit yourself.  See the article below. 

Broadheads: Fixed vs Mechanical;Vanes vs Feathers; Straight vs Helical

Second, is value or bang for the buck! No pun intended.  I think there are great bows out there for under $700 for hunting. You don’t need to break the bank for a decent hunting bow. It is the add-ons that hit your pocketbook. I stay away from kit bows that are all inclusive if you are a serious hunter. 

If you are a super serious bowhunter and want the very best, you can spend upwards of $1700 for the bow and $500 to get it set up and get a top line, top shelf bow. 

Most shooters today attend 3D Archery Shoots. That is a great way to make bowhunting friends and have fun all year. Here in NH is Granite State Bowhunters, a great organization. I was a director for Granite State long ago and ran 3D shoots in Newton NH.  http://www.granitestatebowhunters.com/

Good Hunting!

©Copyright 2021

 

 

 

August is my Archery Month- Update

Ok summer is nearing a close, time to think about Bowhunter prep if you haven’t already been shooting this summer. As I am older with a stigmatic eye, I can’t use my peep sight as my eye wants to drift. I still shoot a recurve instinctive below.

And now I have my Excalibur Crossbow to reach out and touch a nice whitetail. Or find a place to arrow a wild boar. I was up in Maine at “Skinner Bog” last year and took this wild hog at 20 yards. I have always been a Muzzy Broadhead fan. It did the job and kept on going. The blood trail was short and easy to follow.

My wife loves the meat from these wild hogs and demanded that I go and get another for the freezer. “Awe, do I have to”, I said Jokingly.  I got on the phone right away. Below using a PSE Thrive 400. Wow cost effective and does it shoot tight groups.

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Shooting my recurve and broadhead takes lots of practice, but I make it look easy below.

Here in New Hampshire this August there are several 3D shoots by Granite State Bowhunters to prepare you for deer season. See the schedule below.

http://www.granitestatebowhunters.com/3d-schedule/

Perfect practice makes perfect. Don’t overdo slinging arrows, you want to create good habits of form and release. Once your pulling arm feels a bit tired… stop. Repeating good form and release are important. Try shooting on your knees, and create that shooting form besides standing. Be sure to shoot your broadheads or practice broadheads in a broadhead target so you know how they will fly. 

A bowhunter has a little different stance than a target shooter, in that the ground is not often level and undergrowth may cause you to move your feet. Tree stand shooting often requires that you bend at the waist to make the shot, especially when the game is close to you. If you do not bend with the bow, your string and peep angle to your face will cause the arrow to fly to a different point-of-impact. I created a mental checklist for the shot sequence. Tree branches out of way, arm and armguard clear of bowstring bend at waist, wait for best time to draw bow so your movements are not seen. After release, follow the arrow. I like luminock’s so I can see where the arrow entered. 

Good Shooting!

© Copyright 2021