Broadheads: Fixed vs Mechanical;Vanes vs Feathers; Straight vs Helical

Long ago I made a decision to stick with fixed blade broadheads. In large part because I was a traditionalist at heart and a kinship to the past. But lets take a peek at broadheads today, vanes vs feathers  and straight, offset or helical fletch.

Stone – Can break- Razor sharp Needs skill to make, use, and sharpen (knapp).

Steel Zwickey 2 blade below-  Needs to be  sharpened.  Very Strong and proven. not always perfectly centered. Needs Larger feather or vane in offset. https://www.lancasterarchery.com/nsearch/?q=zwickey+broadheads

Zwickey Eskimo 2 Edge 11/32 Broadheads

Trocar Tip Muzzy 3 Blade – Razor Sharp – Perfectly aligned Ferrule

Comes with practice blades.

My favorite for deer and Africa Plains Game.

Muzzy Bowhunting 3 Blade Archery Arrow Broadhead 100 or 125 Grain - 6 Pack

Muzzy One – All one piece

 

G5  Montec Nice Look. Resharpenable

G5 Montec Broadhead

I just love how the triangular shaped flint and/or steel looked.

 

In today’s society there is a lot of salesmanship that sells the latest and greatest. That is ok, and that is how most of us moved from recurve/longbow to the Compound Bow. Accuracy with sights and Power! The 2014 study below suggests accuracy between the two fixed vs mechanical is statistically insignificant and both need some level of compound tuning for broadhead fixed or mechanical vs fieldpoint. Below is the popular Rage Hypodermic  Mechanical Broadhead

Hypodermic Open

The mechanical allows you to;

Use vanes that are smaller, straight or slightly offset due to less steerage from the head

Reduce arrow planing since the ferrule and exposed blades are lower profile.

More forgiving in an untuned bow.

Provide a wider entrance and exit wound.

But why would you not tune your broadheads? Salesmanship does come in to play.

https://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2014/11/broadhead-test-fixed-blades-vs-mechanicals/

Yes the entry wound from a mechanical is gaping and can leave a great blood trail. Visually from the exterior the wound is stunning. But death comes from hemorrhage inside. I think with a powerful bow the mechanical that opens properly will create more vital tissue damage than perhaps a fixed blade.

Yet the fixed blade head is a failsafe head, always for the most style, “Cut-on-Contact.

How much damage does one need to humanely kill a deer? The fixed blade head has been doing it for thousands of years. The  bottom line is that both have advantages and disadvantages and, ceteris paribus, both kill humanly. It is a  shooters choice! Lower poundage to say 40 pounds may risk a  mechanical not opening. In that case a fixed blade broadhead is perhaps a better choice.

From a practice standpoint with your broadhead, I believe it is essential to prove in your broadhead at game distances. Today’s mechanical is very costly to give one up for practice. I like a  strong ferrule and both practice blades and hunt blades with the purchase.

Vanes vs Feathers

Feathers are traditional, vanes are plastic and are not as affected by rain and wetness of the forest.  Vane below. https://www.lancasterarchery.com/arrows/arrow-components/vanes.html?p=2

Bohning Blazer Vanes (Fred Bear Signature Series)

Today synthetic vanes are winning for non traditional archery meaning longbow and recurve traditional shooters still prefer feathers but compound bow hunters and shooters are big on small synthetic vanes.

Consistent arrow spines and concentricity in aluminum and carbon are for all intent, near to ideal today. Some vanes today are already attached to a sleeve that can be slipped on the arrow and heat shrunk right then. Like this Bohning Tiger Blazer QuickFletch from Midway USA.

https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=arrow+vanes&userItemsPerPage=48 

Bohning Tiger Blazer QuikFletch Arrow Vanes White Tiger Pack of 6

 

Traditional Turkey Feather 5 inch Helical Fletch

Elong 30" Archery Carbon Arrows Wood Camo Shaft Spine 600 Recurve Bows Turkey Feather Arrow

Size and Fletch/Vane offset and helical style are often Traditional vs Compound. Helical fletch is used to spin the arrow with a broadhead that is often not true to the shafts centerline, like a Bear Razorhead with a glue ferrule or a Stone point. Thus the arrow will not plane as much.  Click the words below to read this interesting series of articles…

http://archeryreport.com/2011/07/helical-straight-fletch-accuracy-repeatability/

 

Helical vs. Straight - back view

Along with all of the above don’t forget to calculate your FOC Front of Center balance point.

https://www.goldtip.com/Resources/Calculators/FOC-Calculator.aspx

 

Good Hunting!

 

 

 

 

 

Rifles: Want to improve your field hunting accuracy?

Experienced and successful hunters will tell you, It is not the accuracy at the bench rest that ultimately brings home the wild game.  It is how you and your rifle work together in the field and forest.

Are you training for a field match or to shoot at a game animal.

Photo above, I took this South African SCI Gold Medal Kudu with a Ruger M77 with VX III Leupold scope with .338 Win mag and 250 grain Nosler Partition bullets.  My training paid off, big time! I practiced in the field, off-hand, and could fire and keep 4 rapid shots on a pie plate at 80 yards. Of course plains game was often at 200 plus yards and may be out to 300 and 400. Your Professional Hunter – PH will tell you if your up for the shot or get you closer. Most opt for closer, say 200-250 yards.

It is very often the case that you will only get one shot.

Make it count!

First, bullseye targets do not move, but wild game does! Yes it sounds intuitive but it is often overlooked. Over the years I believe, the key to shooting accurately in the field is to know when your trigger will break and what clothes/jackets you will wear for hunting so that you will know in advance if you need to adjust “length of pull” to prevent snags. And finally to “understand” the felt recoil of your rifle.  That  comes with shooting and practicing in field conditions at the distances you expect to shoot. Are you using a tripod, bipod, shooting sticks or your backpack to use as a rest? If so, then practice with it. So many variables, right? 

Length of Pull -The top of your list should be length of pull (LOP), trigger break in pounds, and having an adequate recoil pad and cheek weld.  Most rifle hunters today use a scope, If the scope is too high then your cheek weld will float around and so will your shots. Typical LOP for a rifle is around 13.25 to 13.75 inches. Again, what clothing jacket are you wearing? 

Triggers today are often adjustable in the 2.5 to 6 pound range. Most experienced  hunter like a trigger at around three to four pounds. Having too light a trigger with cold fingers can cause you to not feel the trigger very well and result in accidental discharges. Conversely, a heavy trigger can cause you to miss game that is moving, by not knowing when the trigger will break. How to determine what is right for you… takes some shooting awareness when you “think” the trigger will break and fire but doesn’t. The closer you and your trigger agree is where you want to set your trigger. Keep in  mind that you are hunting, not target shooting. Many gun-shops will often have a trigger scale to test the break point of your trigger. I own a digital scale and use it regularly. 

Recoil Pads today on newer rifles are better than a decade or two ago. Most can reduce felt recoil by half. Older rifles often need harder rubber pads replaced. Why? Less recoil translates directly to improved accuracy. Shooting a .375 H&H with a state of the art recoil pad is like shooting a 30-06 or .270. Shooting smarter not harder! 

Cheek weld for scopes is vital and often overlooked. If your cheek does not make solid contact with the comb of your rifle then your eye is floating as it looks through a scope.  At 50 yard that may still work for you but at over 100 yards it can mean a clean miss. There are many devices out there as add-on’s for bringing your cheek higher and allow ideal eye alignment with your scope. 

These variables are just a few of the vital aspects of good accuracy. Then comes breathing, trigger squeeze and understanding recoil. 

Even the best game shots stay the best because they practice. 

Good Hunting!

© Copyright 2020

Lancaster County Pennsylvania Flintlock From A Kit

Why make an authentic Lancaster County Pennsylvania Rifle from a kit? The word Kit, some would infer, that it is a cheap knock off, and easy to put together. Nothing could be further from the truth as it pertains to authentic Pennsylvania Flintlock Rifles.  Today’s kits are made of the finest woods, finest  barrels  and as accurate as all get out! Really!! To my eye, the Lancaster County Rifles from original makers such as Jacob Dickert and Isaac Haines among others are a thing of functional beauty. I built my rifle from a Jim Chambers Ltd Lancaster Rifle Kit with Tiger Maple stock, Siler Lock, 44 inch Rice Swamp Barrel. The kit looks like this… Granted the stock looks like it is ready for parts to be dropped in but its not. The stock is roughed out and the brass is sand cast with cast  marks.  Every part must be inlayed or chiseled into the stock.

A good  kit will cost only around $1000 dollars like mine. But you will need an array of hand tools and carving chisels and sand paper that can run in $200 dollars or so. I know that is a lot of money but they don’t come cheap.

Below is the Jim Chambers Lancaster Kit I used for  my build.

Rifle Kits Include All This

 

I am a student of history, In particular the American Revolution and the Pennsylvania Rifle was a key part of winning the Revolution because it had a rifled barrel and longer range. The Pennsylvania rifle, some know as the Kentucky Rifle was not as easy to load as the smooth bore Brown Bess musket (or French made Charleville).  Bess had accuracy good to 50 yards but not much more.  The Pennsylvania rifle earned its keep on the frontier for accurately dispatching wild game and as a sniper rifle at long distances to 200 or more yards in the hands of a Marksman.

Men like General Daniel Morgan and Morgan’s Rifleman were hired for their skill as woodsman and crack shots at long ranges. One such hero under Morgan was Tim Murphy who during the battle of Saratoga took out a horse riding British General beyond 200 yards, some say 300 yards.

The patch box on the stock was often made of wood however upscale Lancaster Pennsylvania models were lavishly embellished with brass and often a signature of its maker. My patch box below.

But if you want to purchase an authentic Pennsylvania rifle (not the kit) the cost can be  significant. Often prices are in the $3000 to $5000 range. The art work is spectacular! See the brass patch-box below from this John Bivins Style Flintlock. http://www.custommuzzleloaders.com/bivins.html 

 

I think the hardest part of making a Pennsylvania Flintlock rifle given that the barrel and lock is roughed-in already , is carving the stock and in-letting the barrel into the stock. Today’s kits have roughed-in the stock too so that this major hurdle is lessened to a great degree.  If you are not good with your hands though, I do not recommend building from a kit.  Trust me,  it is not easy and it is fraught with danger of major errors using chisels to inlet the stock for barrel and trigger assembly.  But if you are good with your hands,then this rifle can be your signature work to pass on.

My Jacob Dickert brass patchbox below was  purchased with the daisy elsewhere. I spent hours just to cut, drill and chisel to inlay the patchbox flush with the wood, create the spring door lid.

I liked my finish inlay work so much that I hired a  master engraver to copy Dickert’s design seen far below for the box and lock side plate.

 

Below is my first ever novice attempt at carving a double Rococo C scroll as Dickert would have done, before staining. I was very happy with it!

Below is the Dickert Floral I also carved at the Tang.

Watch the Sparks Fly from this Flintlock below. My slow motion clip displays the spark power to ignite the charge in the pan.

To make your build easier, better kits come with a DVD and take you step by step though the process. I  needed  the DVD, It was excellent.

Well, 3 years ago the Lancaster Kit below with tiger maple cost 950.00  The master engraving on the  box and side plate cost me $300 more.

It took me more than 100 hours to carve, cut, and fit and stain,  perhaps nearer to 150 hours. Thank God it shoots really well after all that effort!

Yesterday I took  my rifle to the range and shot close range, to 25 yards. It was  fun. See below. Shot  number 1 Upper Hit clipped the dead center box. Shot number 2 lower right was nearly in the same spot. Shot number 3 was a off to the right a bit but I think that was me and not the rifle. I use 70 grains FFG powder and there is very little recoil. I was very pleased with the accuracy check. Good for hunting squirrels, rabbits and hares!

My Jacob Dickert Lancaster Pennsylvania Flintlock  shoots flat to 75 yards and drops a few inches at 100 yards and 16 inches at 150 yards with 90 grains of FFG powder. For deer, I will stay within the 75 yards.

Good Hunting!

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